Post by Admin on Jan 7, 2017 11:31:08 GMT
I'll be updating this section over time. It's a work in progress.
We'll start off with the basics.
Edison 3D - Installation Guide
What's included:
Power, HDMI and USB cables. No instruction/manual was included which is why I made this post)
Edison 3D (Box/System):
Here's Edison 3D.
3D Glasses:
These are the 3D glasses. The power button is the small polygon shape which is also the LED indicator when charging. You might need to use the tip of your finger nail to push the button in as the button isn't very pushy and it's small. The way to know if your glasses are in 3D mode is if the glasses are black and not charging. Otherwise, the glasses are a bit more transparent when the glasses are off and not charging.
Behind Edison 3D:
This is behind Edison 3D. There is an HDMI input and HDMI output port, a USB port for charging your glasses, a DC port for plugging and powering on Edison 3D and once powered on there would be a RED led indicator in the USB port (if no USB cable is plugged in). Otherwise, you can see the RED led indicator below Edison 3D (bunch of holes where it makes seeing the RED led indicator possible.)
Remote:
Here's the remote. This is the only way to power on as well as set up the Edison 3D box. If you lose the remote, you are pretty much out of luck. Also, it's best to to check if the batteries are fresh. If Edison 3D isn't powering from the power button on the remote, it's best to change batteries just to see if it's the remote itself that's the issue and not the Edison 3D box.
Power (Button):
This is the power button. Try to go nearly as possible to Edison 3D to power it on. IR must be within good range and in line of sight. Once you press the power button, the LED light behind Edison 3D will turn red.
3D (Button):
This is the 3D button. Press it once and it should turn your screen blurry meaning you are in 3D mode. You are converting a 2D image to 3D with a press of this button.
Directional (Buttons):
These are the directional buttons. You'll be using this for cycling through different settings and hitting "Ok" to set the setting etc.
OSD (Button):
This is the OSD button (on-screen display aka menu). Here's where you'll access pretty much all the settings for Edison 3D except for the settings for the glasses.
OSD Exit (Button):
This is the OSD Exit button (aka return/back button). This basically let's you go to your previous step or exit out of the OSD.
Glasses (Button):
This is the Glasses button. Basically, this opens up a setting that's not available in the OSD menu. You get a menu with 2 settings: LV and SL. You can adjust both LV and SL from 1-9. This is basically where you try to get rid of any ghosting issues.
HD (Button):
Here's the HD button. This basically let's your TV be compatible with Edison 3D if it's not compatible with FHD.
FHD (Button):
And here's the FHD button. This basically let's you enjoy content in Full HD if your TV has Full HD capability.
TV (Button):
This is the TV mode. It changes things back to normal.
VR (Button):
Here's the VR mode. This is for people with Virtual Reality headsets. So, if you want to experience what I'm guessing is limited VR this is for you.
Mute (Button):
Here's the mute button. This is not functional. Pressing it makes no difference.
3D Depth (Buttons):
Here are the two 3D depth buttons. The left (purely white arrow) and right (black arrow with outer white line) arrows. The left arrow when pressed for the first time is adjusting for the inward setting. The left arrow when pressed during the inward or outward setting just cycles through their settings (but doesn't change to inward or outward.) The right arrow when pressed for the first time is adjusting the outward setting. The right arrow when pressed during the inward or outward setting just cycles through their settings (but doesn't change to inward or outward.) There are three settings to cycle through: weak, medium, and strong. No middle convergence mode here which I'll talk about later down this post.
Status/LED Indicators
1. Plug all cables to the appropriate locations on the Edison 3D box. HDMI Input/HDMI Output, DC port, and/or USB port.
2. Grab the remote that was included in the packaging. Place the batteries (if batteries were included). If not, get batteries. Also, make sure the batteries are alive. If it's dead, it'll make Edison 3D useless. This is the only way you can power on Edison 3D as well as control it's settings.
3. Press (power button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. Go as close as possible to Edison 3D when powering on/controling Edison 3D as IR needs line of sight and best possible range. If you don't press (power button) on the remote, your Edison 3D is likely just off and you won't see any image until you do.
4. Press (3D button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. This will make the screen blurry. What you are doing here is converting a 2D image so that it can be seen in a 3D format.
5. There are two buttons with arrows at the very bottom of remote. They are 3D Depth Left Arrow (white arrow in black background) and 3D Depth Right Arrow (black arrow with white outline in black background.) What this let's you basically do is change convergence and the 3 different settings that comes with it. When hitting the left arrow for the first time, you are deciding to use the inward setting. When hitting the right arrow for the first time, you are deciding to use the outward setting. When you are in either setting and you press on either arrow, you will just be cycling through the 3 setting (Weak/Medium/Strong) and not changing the convergence (Inward/Outward.) The missing convergence setting here is middle. If you plan to mess with Middle, you would have to go to OSD>3D>Convergence>Middle. I went with Weak and Outward because Weak works better with my TV and Outward gives me a 3D pop out effect I prefer.
**Make sure you are in the right scene mode. You can see what scene you are in by going to the OSD menu. OSD>3D>Scene and you have four choices: Movie, Games, Picture, and Text. If you are watching a movie, choose movie. If you are playing a video game, choose Games.**
- OSD/Menu:
6. Grab your 3D glasses. Hit the power button on glasses (small polygon shape button in the middle). You'll see the glasses turn darker. If the glasses stay that way the whole time, it's a success. If the glasses go dark for a sec or two and stay off, you are unsuccessful. Reason could be you are not in 3D mode. You must be in 3D mode to have the glasses stay on.
7. Make sure your room is dark as possible to avoid the annoying constant flickering. Closing the blinds/shades should do a good enough job.
8. Play and pause around a movie (recommend animation or movies that include animation such as Avatar, Cars, Frozen, Toy Story etc.). If you are seeing constant flickering on the screen, try adjusting the backlight of your TV and maybe brightness. For me, when I adjust my backlight of my TV to the max I get the least amount of flickering. Adjusting brightness does not have as much effect. Also, try disabling motion enhancers or whatever and see if that helps. Just mess with some of the TV settings to see if anything help.
9. Hit the (glasses button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. This is where you adjust the 3D image so the 3D image is as clear as possible. (Use step 8 idea of playing and pausing around scenes of a movie to adjust 3D image. The best types are a combination of text, characters and detailed environments.)
- Glasses Menu:
10. Notice in the previous step (9.), there are 2 settings you have to adjust: LV and SL. You can adjust both from 1-9. Adjust until you see as minimal ghosting as possible. My almost perfect setup was LV 7 and SL 3 with Movie scene as the selection and a Weak Outward setting.
11. Done. That's pretty much it. You will likely mess around with the settings from movie to movie, game to game etc.
**Btw, each scene you select whether it be movie or game has it's own glasses (LV and SL) settings saved. So, if you had LV 7 and SL 3 in Movie..you'll probably have something like LV 4 and SL 3 in Games etc.**
3D Depth Adjusment:
The Edison 3D Console is equipped with 6 LEVELS of ADJUSTABLE in relation to the DEPTH OF FIELD and is separated into 2 Setting of “Inward 3D” and “Outward 3D.” Each of the 2 settings allows 3 different level of adjustments in both the (1) Inward Field Depth & (2) Outward Field Depth via the remote control - (Strong / Medium / Weak).
3D Depth: – Inward 3D & Outward 3D Effects
- Inward 3D Effect: indicates the 3 Dimensional Field Depth that protrude INSIDE the different layers of 3D moving images / video.
- Outward 3D Effect: indicates the 3 Dimensional Field Depth that protrudes OUTWARD LAYERS of of 3D moving images / video outside your TV screen.
An Example:
Just imagine, in the movie when Pinocchio lied to his father and his nose grew longer and longer.
*There is also a Middle setting in which it's basically the best of both worlds but you won't get more of the popping out of the screen feel as outward.
3D:
This is where you'll cycle through the different types of formats such as 2D, 2D-3D, 3D(SBS) and 3D (T/B.) There is also native 3D support in which you don't get the mode displayed in OSD>3D menu. It'll just say 2D but you'll know it's native 3D because it's on 2D and the OSD menu is blurry.
Stereo Index:
It gives you visual of the level of depth from the central point from your TV screen. The TV screen itself is the zero zone where there is no depth. (Screen size and from where you are watching from are the cause of the 3D effect. Because of that, there is no way of the measure of the depth to the TV screen.)
Convergence:
Are the location where the TV screen is a zero zone and the object of the image flow toward to you from the zero zone or flow away from you where the zero zone is at. It use the Stereo Index value that gives convergence 6 different 3D depth setting (my guess it to tell Edison 3D how you want to use Stereo index, not a permit fix setting )
Scene:
Tell Edison how to deal with color, moving the flow of pictures, dealing with no moving picture, and in 2D-3D conversion for the number of levels to created in 3D. There is 4 type of scene that Edison 3D can work with.
Will update later.....Sorry
We'll start off with the basics.
Edison 3D - Installation Guide
What's included:
Power, HDMI and USB cables. No instruction/manual was included which is why I made this post)
Edison 3D (Box/System):
Here's Edison 3D.
3D Glasses:
These are the 3D glasses. The power button is the small polygon shape which is also the LED indicator when charging. You might need to use the tip of your finger nail to push the button in as the button isn't very pushy and it's small. The way to know if your glasses are in 3D mode is if the glasses are black and not charging. Otherwise, the glasses are a bit more transparent when the glasses are off and not charging.
Behind Edison 3D:
This is behind Edison 3D. There is an HDMI input and HDMI output port, a USB port for charging your glasses, a DC port for plugging and powering on Edison 3D and once powered on there would be a RED led indicator in the USB port (if no USB cable is plugged in). Otherwise, you can see the RED led indicator below Edison 3D (bunch of holes where it makes seeing the RED led indicator possible.)
Remote:
Here's the remote. This is the only way to power on as well as set up the Edison 3D box. If you lose the remote, you are pretty much out of luck. Also, it's best to to check if the batteries are fresh. If Edison 3D isn't powering from the power button on the remote, it's best to change batteries just to see if it's the remote itself that's the issue and not the Edison 3D box.
Buttons on Remote and Their Purpose
Power (Button):
This is the power button. Try to go nearly as possible to Edison 3D to power it on. IR must be within good range and in line of sight. Once you press the power button, the LED light behind Edison 3D will turn red.
3D (Button):
This is the 3D button. Press it once and it should turn your screen blurry meaning you are in 3D mode. You are converting a 2D image to 3D with a press of this button.
Directional (Buttons):
These are the directional buttons. You'll be using this for cycling through different settings and hitting "Ok" to set the setting etc.
OSD (Button):
This is the OSD button (on-screen display aka menu). Here's where you'll access pretty much all the settings for Edison 3D except for the settings for the glasses.
OSD Exit (Button):
This is the OSD Exit button (aka return/back button). This basically let's you go to your previous step or exit out of the OSD.
Glasses (Button):
This is the Glasses button. Basically, this opens up a setting that's not available in the OSD menu. You get a menu with 2 settings: LV and SL. You can adjust both LV and SL from 1-9. This is basically where you try to get rid of any ghosting issues.
HD (Button):
Here's the HD button. This basically let's your TV be compatible with Edison 3D if it's not compatible with FHD.
FHD (Button):
And here's the FHD button. This basically let's you enjoy content in Full HD if your TV has Full HD capability.
TV (Button):
This is the TV mode. It changes things back to normal.
VR (Button):
Here's the VR mode. This is for people with Virtual Reality headsets. So, if you want to experience what I'm guessing is limited VR this is for you.
Mute (Button):
Here's the mute button. This is not functional. Pressing it makes no difference.
3D Depth (Buttons):
Here are the two 3D depth buttons. The left (purely white arrow) and right (black arrow with outer white line) arrows. The left arrow when pressed for the first time is adjusting for the inward setting. The left arrow when pressed during the inward or outward setting just cycles through their settings (but doesn't change to inward or outward.) The right arrow when pressed for the first time is adjusting the outward setting. The right arrow when pressed during the inward or outward setting just cycles through their settings (but doesn't change to inward or outward.) There are three settings to cycle through: weak, medium, and strong. No middle convergence mode here which I'll talk about later down this post.
Status/LED Indicators
Edison 3D when not powered on (even when power source and all cables are plugged in) | Edison 3D when plugged and powered on and the power button has been pressed on the remote to turn on the system. | |
Glasses when either not plugged in for charging, charge has been complete or when not in use. | Glasses when charging shows an orange LED indicator in the middle (same button you press to power on the glasses.) | Glasses when in 3D mode. This is when the 3D button on the remote is pressed and you press onto the power button of the glasses. If you are successful, the glasses will always look this dark until the battery dies. |
Step by Step Guide (OSD Version):
1. Plug all cables to the appropriate locations on the Edison 3D box. HDMI Input/HDMI Output, DC port, and/or USB port.
2. Grab the remote that was included in the packaging. Place the batteries (if batteries were included). If not, get batteries. Also, make sure the batteries are alive. If it's dead, it'll make Edison 3D useless. This is the only way you can power on Edison 3D as well as control it's settings.
3. Press (power button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. Go as close as possible to Edison 3D when powering on/controling Edison 3D as IR needs line of sight and best possible range. If you don't press (power button) on the remote, your Edison 3D is likely just off and you won't see any image until you do.
4. Hit the (OSD button). This will open up a menu. Using the directional button (Up, Down, Left, and Right) as well as (OK button) to go through the menu and (OSD Exit button) to go to previous step or get out of the menu. All we want to mess with is the 3D menu as that's pretty much the only thing you'll likely be ever messing with.
- Main Menu:
- Let's go to 3D Menu.
- This is what the 3D Menu looks like (Well, if you aren't in 3D Mode.):
- Let's go ahead and select 2D so we can use the right directional button to move to "2D-3D" mode. (If you aren't already in "2D-3D" mode. If you are, this doesn't apply to you and you just follow the steps after.)
5. Now that you know how use the directional buttons and select things. We'll continue in the same menu.
6. Grab your 3D glasses. Hit the power button on glasses (small polygon shape button in the middle). You'll see the glasses turn darker. If the glasses stay that way the whole time, it's a success. If the glasses go dark for a sec or two and stay off, you are unsuccessful. Reason could be you are not in 3D mode. You must be in 3D mode to have the glasses stay on.
7. Make sure your room is dark as possible to avoid the annoying constant flickering. Closing the blinds/shades should do a good enough job.
8. Play and pause around a movie (recommend animation or movies that include animation such as Avatar, Cars, Frozen, Toy Story etc.). If you are seeing constant flickering on the screen, try adjusting the backlight of your TV and maybe brightness. For me, when I adjust my backlight of my TV to the max I get the least amount of flickering. Adjusting brightness does not have as much effect. Also, try disabling motion enhancers or whatever and see if that helps. Just mess with some of the TV settings to see if anything help.
9. Hit the (glasses button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. This is where you adjust the 3D image so the 3D image is as clear as possible. (Use step 8 idea of playing and pausing around scenes of a movie to adjust 3D image. The best types are a combination of text, characters and detailed environments.)
- Glasses Menu:
10. Notice in the previous step (9.), there are 2 settings you have to adjust: LV and SL. You can adjust both from 1-9. Adjust until you see as minimal ghosting as possible. My almost perfect setup was LV 7 and SL 3 with Movie scene as the selection and a Weak Outward setting.
11. Done. That's pretty much it. You will likely mess around with the settings from movie to movie, game to game etc.
**Btw, each scene you select whether it be movie or game has it's own glasses (LV and SL) settings saved. So, if you had LV 7 and SL 3 in Movie..you'll probably have something like LV 4 and SL 3 in Games etc.**
2. Grab the remote that was included in the packaging. Place the batteries (if batteries were included). If not, get batteries. Also, make sure the batteries are alive. If it's dead, it'll make Edison 3D useless. This is the only way you can power on Edison 3D as well as control it's settings.
3. Press (power button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. Go as close as possible to Edison 3D when powering on/controling Edison 3D as IR needs line of sight and best possible range. If you don't press (power button) on the remote, your Edison 3D is likely just off and you won't see any image until you do.
4. Hit the (OSD button). This will open up a menu. Using the directional button (Up, Down, Left, and Right) as well as (OK button) to go through the menu and (OSD Exit button) to go to previous step or get out of the menu. All we want to mess with is the 3D menu as that's pretty much the only thing you'll likely be ever messing with.
- Main Menu:
- Let's go to 3D Menu.
- This is what the 3D Menu looks like (Well, if you aren't in 3D Mode.):
- Let's go ahead and select 2D so we can use the right directional button to move to "2D-3D" mode. (If you aren't already in "2D-3D" mode. If you are, this doesn't apply to you and you just follow the steps after.)
5. Now that you know how use the directional buttons and select things. We'll continue in the same menu.
Here we are messing with Stereo Index. There are three settings to go through. Weak, Medium and Strong. Depending on your setup, you want to choose what's best for you. The best one for my TV was Weak so I chose Weak. | This is Convergence. Here again we are dealing with 3 different settings. Inward, Middle and Outward. I'll have more detailed explanation (taken from Indiegogo) of the difference of these later down. I chose Outward because it gave me more of a 3D popping out effect. |
Here we are dealing with scene. Here we are dealing with 4 settings: Movie, Text, Game, and Picture. Choose the appropriate scene for whatever content being displayed on the screen. I have chosen Movie because I am mainly using Edison 3D to watch movies in 3D. |
6. Grab your 3D glasses. Hit the power button on glasses (small polygon shape button in the middle). You'll see the glasses turn darker. If the glasses stay that way the whole time, it's a success. If the glasses go dark for a sec or two and stay off, you are unsuccessful. Reason could be you are not in 3D mode. You must be in 3D mode to have the glasses stay on.
7. Make sure your room is dark as possible to avoid the annoying constant flickering. Closing the blinds/shades should do a good enough job.
8. Play and pause around a movie (recommend animation or movies that include animation such as Avatar, Cars, Frozen, Toy Story etc.). If you are seeing constant flickering on the screen, try adjusting the backlight of your TV and maybe brightness. For me, when I adjust my backlight of my TV to the max I get the least amount of flickering. Adjusting brightness does not have as much effect. Also, try disabling motion enhancers or whatever and see if that helps. Just mess with some of the TV settings to see if anything help.
9. Hit the (glasses button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. This is where you adjust the 3D image so the 3D image is as clear as possible. (Use step 8 idea of playing and pausing around scenes of a movie to adjust 3D image. The best types are a combination of text, characters and detailed environments.)
- Glasses Menu:
10. Notice in the previous step (9.), there are 2 settings you have to adjust: LV and SL. You can adjust both from 1-9. Adjust until you see as minimal ghosting as possible. My almost perfect setup was LV 7 and SL 3 with Movie scene as the selection and a Weak Outward setting.
11. Done. That's pretty much it. You will likely mess around with the settings from movie to movie, game to game etc.
**Btw, each scene you select whether it be movie or game has it's own glasses (LV and SL) settings saved. So, if you had LV 7 and SL 3 in Movie..you'll probably have something like LV 4 and SL 3 in Games etc.**
Step By Step Guide (Quick Version):
1. Plug all cables to the appropriate locations on the Edison 3D box. HDMI Input/HDMI Output, DC port, and/or USB port.
2. Grab the remote that was included in the packaging. Place the batteries (if batteries were included). If not, get batteries. Also, make sure the batteries are alive. If it's dead, it'll make Edison 3D useless. This is the only way you can power on Edison 3D as well as control it's settings.
3. Press (power button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. Go as close as possible to Edison 3D when powering on/controling Edison 3D as IR needs line of sight and best possible range. If you don't press (power button) on the remote, your Edison 3D is likely just off and you won't see any image until you do.
4. Press (3D button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. This will make the screen blurry. What you are doing here is converting a 2D image so that it can be seen in a 3D format.
5. There are two buttons with arrows at the very bottom of remote. They are 3D Depth Left Arrow (white arrow in black background) and 3D Depth Right Arrow (black arrow with white outline in black background.) What this let's you basically do is change convergence and the 3 different settings that comes with it. When hitting the left arrow for the first time, you are deciding to use the inward setting. When hitting the right arrow for the first time, you are deciding to use the outward setting. When you are in either setting and you press on either arrow, you will just be cycling through the 3 setting (Weak/Medium/Strong) and not changing the convergence (Inward/Outward.) The missing convergence setting here is middle. If you plan to mess with Middle, you would have to go to OSD>3D>Convergence>Middle. I went with Weak and Outward because Weak works better with my TV and Outward gives me a 3D pop out effect I prefer.
**Make sure you are in the right scene mode. You can see what scene you are in by going to the OSD menu. OSD>3D>Scene and you have four choices: Movie, Games, Picture, and Text. If you are watching a movie, choose movie. If you are playing a video game, choose Games.**
- OSD/Menu:
Here we are messing with Stereo Index. There are three settings to go through. Weak, Medium and Strong. Depending on your setup, you want to choose what's best for you. The best one for my TV was Weak so I chose Weak. | This is Convergence. Here again we are dealing with 3 different settings. Inward, Middle and Outward. I'll have more detailed explanation (taken from Indiegogo) of the difference of these later down. I chose Outward because it gave me more of a 3D popping out effect. |
Here we are dealing with scene. Here we are dealing with 4 settings: Movie, Text, Game, and Picture. Choose the appropriate scene for whatever content being displayed on the screen. I have chosen Movie because I am mainly using Edison 3D to watch movies in 3D. |
6. Grab your 3D glasses. Hit the power button on glasses (small polygon shape button in the middle). You'll see the glasses turn darker. If the glasses stay that way the whole time, it's a success. If the glasses go dark for a sec or two and stay off, you are unsuccessful. Reason could be you are not in 3D mode. You must be in 3D mode to have the glasses stay on.
7. Make sure your room is dark as possible to avoid the annoying constant flickering. Closing the blinds/shades should do a good enough job.
8. Play and pause around a movie (recommend animation or movies that include animation such as Avatar, Cars, Frozen, Toy Story etc.). If you are seeing constant flickering on the screen, try adjusting the backlight of your TV and maybe brightness. For me, when I adjust my backlight of my TV to the max I get the least amount of flickering. Adjusting brightness does not have as much effect. Also, try disabling motion enhancers or whatever and see if that helps. Just mess with some of the TV settings to see if anything help.
9. Hit the (glasses button) on the remote towards Edison 3D. This is where you adjust the 3D image so the 3D image is as clear as possible. (Use step 8 idea of playing and pausing around scenes of a movie to adjust 3D image. The best types are a combination of text, characters and detailed environments.)
- Glasses Menu:
10. Notice in the previous step (9.), there are 2 settings you have to adjust: LV and SL. You can adjust both from 1-9. Adjust until you see as minimal ghosting as possible. My almost perfect setup was LV 7 and SL 3 with Movie scene as the selection and a Weak Outward setting.
11. Done. That's pretty much it. You will likely mess around with the settings from movie to movie, game to game etc.
**Btw, each scene you select whether it be movie or game has it's own glasses (LV and SL) settings saved. So, if you had LV 7 and SL 3 in Movie..you'll probably have something like LV 4 and SL 3 in Games etc.**
Step By Step Guide (Native 3D):
How to Fix Flickering Issue
About Adjustments (Indiegogo):
3D Depth Adjusment:
The Edison 3D Console is equipped with 6 LEVELS of ADJUSTABLE in relation to the DEPTH OF FIELD and is separated into 2 Setting of “Inward 3D” and “Outward 3D.” Each of the 2 settings allows 3 different level of adjustments in both the (1) Inward Field Depth & (2) Outward Field Depth via the remote control - (Strong / Medium / Weak).
3D Depth: – Inward 3D & Outward 3D Effects
- Inward 3D Effect: indicates the 3 Dimensional Field Depth that protrude INSIDE the different layers of 3D moving images / video.
- Outward 3D Effect: indicates the 3 Dimensional Field Depth that protrudes OUTWARD LAYERS of of 3D moving images / video outside your TV screen.
An Example:
Just imagine, in the movie when Pinocchio lied to his father and his nose grew longer and longer.
- You can adjust via the Inward 3D Effect of (3 Settings of Strong / Medium / Weak) to set how far INSIDE Pinocchio’s body go into the different layers of the background.
- You can also adjust via the Outward 3D Effects of (3 Settings of Strong / Medium / Weak) to set how far Pinocchio’s nose goes OUTSIDE of the SCREEN!
*There is also a Middle setting in which it's basically the best of both worlds but you won't get more of the popping out of the screen feel as outward.
Adjustment of Glasses:
The Edison 3D Console provides its users with precise calibration of the provided 3D Active Shutter Glasses to your TV or Monitor Screen. Thus, users must calibrate the Edison 3D Console & its accompanying 3D Glasses before the initial use. By pressing the “Glasses setting” button ONCE on the remote control, the user initiates a GUI screen on his/ her TV and Projector enter into the 3D calibration mode.
With the LEFT & RIGHT buttons on remote control, the Correct 3D Calibration can be achieved.
*** ONLY ONE SIDE of Calibration is required***
Adjusting with your LEFT eye closed
Adjusting with your RIGHT eye closed
LV Button: Delays 2 milliseconds (1~9 levels)
SL Button: Delays 0.2 milliseconds (1~9 levels)
The Edison 3D Console provides its users with precise calibration of the provided 3D Active Shutter Glasses to your TV or Monitor Screen. Thus, users must calibrate the Edison 3D Console & its accompanying 3D Glasses before the initial use. By pressing the “Glasses setting” button ONCE on the remote control, the user initiates a GUI screen on his/ her TV and Projector enter into the 3D calibration mode.
With the LEFT & RIGHT buttons on remote control, the Correct 3D Calibration can be achieved.
*** ONLY ONE SIDE of Calibration is required***
Adjusting with your LEFT eye closed
- When looking from your RIGHT eye, the contents in the RIGHT section of the screen should stay constant but the contents in the LEFT section of screen shall gradually fade away. Once the contents in the LEFT section fades away completely, the 3D Calibration is successful.
OR
Adjusting with your RIGHT eye closed
- When looking from your LEFT eye, the contents in the LEFT section of the screen should stay constant but the contents in the RIGHT section of screen shall gradually fade away. Once the contents in the RIGHT section fades away completely, the 3D Calibration is successful.
LV Button: Delays 2 milliseconds (1~9 levels)
SL Button: Delays 0.2 milliseconds (1~9 levels)
Inside 3D Menu:
3D: |
|
Stereo Index: | Convergence: | Scene: |
|
|
|
3D:
This is where you'll cycle through the different types of formats such as 2D, 2D-3D, 3D(SBS) and 3D (T/B.) There is also native 3D support in which you don't get the mode displayed in OSD>3D menu. It'll just say 2D but you'll know it's native 3D because it's on 2D and the OSD menu is blurry.
- 2D A flat image. This is the mode where you see your TV the same way as you did before Edison 3D. No effect is taking place. A 2D image uses horizontal X and vertical Y dimensions. 2D is short for two dimensions. When turning the image to it's side, the image will become a line. This mode is used when you want to stop using the 3D effect with Edison 3D to have a "normal" image displaying.
2D-3D This mode is used for converting a 2D image to a 3D image. This is a process in which a 2D image (which is flat) transforms to a 3D image (which is round and popping out.) Basically, it's the process of creating imagery for each eye under one 2D image.
3D (SBS) Also known as Side By Side mode. This is when the horizontal resolution of an image is split in half in order to store the left and right eye images into a single frame. So what this means is that the left eye sub-frame and the right eye sub-frame are stacked side by side just as the name implies. Generally, people use side by side format when watching non-native 3D content.- 3D (T/B) Also known as Top-Bottom or Over-Under mode. This is when the vertical resolution of an image is split in half in order to store left and right eye images on top of each other into a single frame.
Stereo Index:
It gives you visual of the level of depth from the central point from your TV screen. The TV screen itself is the zero zone where there is no depth. (Screen size and from where you are watching from are the cause of the 3D effect. Because of that, there is no way of the measure of the depth to the TV screen.)
- Weak a level of depth where it at the zero zone
- Medium 2 times more depth level from the zero zone (2 times is a guessing number)
- Strong 4 times more depth level from the zero zone (4 times is a guessing number)
Convergence:
Are the location where the TV screen is a zero zone and the object of the image flow toward to you from the zero zone or flow away from you where the zero zone is at. It use the Stereo Index value that gives convergence 6 different 3D depth setting (my guess it to tell Edison 3D how you want to use Stereo index, not a permit fix setting )
- Inward Use the Stereo Index to move the image away from you where the zero zone is at.
- Middle Turn off 3D effect? (I have no idea yet. I don't see any effect from Stereo Index)
- Outward Use the Stereo index toward to you from the zero zone is at.
Scene:
Tell Edison how to deal with color, moving the flow of pictures, dealing with no moving picture, and in 2D-3D conversion for the number of levels to created in 3D. There is 4 type of scene that Edison 3D can work with.
- Text Tell Edison to keep the image sharp and reduce the numbers of levels of depth from the 2D display.
- Picture Increase brightness in color and the mild level of sharpness. increase number of levels of depth from the 2D display.
- Movie Reduces the sharpness and brightness. Numbers of levels is variables of depth from the 2D display.
- Games Reduce the sharpness. Increase brightness. Numbers of levels variables of depth from the 2D display.
Will update later.....Sorry